Dirty French

As the name indicates, the focus at this restaurant is on French cuisine, although the “Dirty” influences appear to come from all over the map. The enticing, beautifully scripted menu is divided into the usual timeless categories (“Hors d’Oeuvre,” “Salade,” “Poisson,” etc.), but look closely and you’ll see mille-feuille with seasonal curry and green garlic, duck à l’orange with ras el hanout and preserved orange, and a lamb burger with cumin onions. Die-hard fans of rich French cooking will enjoy the sturdy lunchtime croque monsieur, however, and dishes like the steak frites and the cote du boeuf, however, (the former featuring a bone in New York strip and a lavishly rich green peppercorn sauce, the latter, a small boat of classic Bearnaise).