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When Ditch Plains chef-owner Marc Murphy entered the lobster-roll business some months back, the scoldy schoolmarm critiques were quick and none too kind. But now that the place has had time to settle into a nearly round-the-clock groove, it’s become obvious that Ditch Plains is no Mary’s-come-lately. Instead, it’s very much its own entity: a sleekly designed, unexpectedly comfortable hangout with consistently good food, genial service, and, surprisingly enough, a terrific wine list. Now, the Underground Gourmet has spent some time at the actual Ditch Plains beach, and among its many native charms, wine isn’t one of them. But Murphy, the man who instigated the no-glasses, bottles-only rule at his Tribeca restaurant Landmarc, has brought the innovation here. Every wine sold by the bottle is also available by the half, at prices much closer to retail than to the typically larcenous restaurant markup. What that means is that over the course of a leisurely brunch, a plate of oysters, or even while gulping down the off-the-menu pair of hot dogs topped with macaroni and cheese, diners can sample a thoughtful array of half-bottles priced at little more than what a glass of same would run them at any number of neighboring establishments. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite's Full Review (11/27/06)

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• Wine Bar Picks: Bottega Del Vino, Veritas, Ditch Plains, Cru (12/4/06)