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You probably wouldn’t expect a twentysomething cook to leave the Danny Meyer empire to open a disco-ball-clad restaurant in Bed-Stuy. Yet co-chef and part owner Justin Warner and his team of merry culinary aesthetes put out fare as ambitious as his former employer’s. Pre-meal you’ll want to grab a bar stool to quaff a Spherical Back, or two. Shoot the whiskey shot down your gullet before popping a gooey green ball into your mouth, which turns out to be filled with briney pickle juice. Then move to a table to start your culinary discourse. Pro tip: Nothing is as straightforward as it seems. There are (savory) doughnuts stuffed with foie gras mousse, and fried dumplings under a veil of melted cheese – an Asian-fied play on nachos. A fish and some chips is just that, a whole fried fish, propped up on a pile of accoutrement, a symbol that this restaurant is destined to do swimmingly well. — Lauren Bloomberg

Nippon nachos ($7); foie gras doughnut ($11); steak tartare ($14); a chicken and waffles ($20)

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