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No ordinary tube steaks, Dogmatic's $5 dogs are made by Sullivan County's Violet Hills Farm from well-contented pasture-raised cows and turkeys, of course. In another break with tradition, Dogmatic serves its sausages not on squishy buns but on crusty, pliant demi-baguettes that are hollowed out and heated on a metal-spiked contraption that looks like a piece of Uncle Fester's Posturepedic.

After the baguettes are unskewered from these spikes (which effectively toast them from the inside) the chefs pour in a choice of homemade sauces or condiments, and then shove in a hot dog. The beef version on one early visit was deliciously spicy if a little dry, but enhanced by a melty jalapeño-cheddar sauce; the turkey took nicely to mustard. And although a tasty bundle of grilled asparagus slicked with Feta-and-sun-dried-tomato sauce fits no known definition of "frankfurter," gourmet or otherwise, vegetarians can now approach a hot-dog shop without quivering in their pleather booties. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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