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You see a Korean restaurant in Williamsburg, and immediately you think scene over substance. That this is not the case at Dokebi is evident as soon as you start slurping soon dubu, an unapologetically briny, fiery stew of clams, shrimp, and tofu. Fortunately, this dish is no aberration. Except for a flavorless rendition of japchae, the classic glass-noodle stir-fry, the food is fresh and tasty, from the banchan, the collection of little dishes that accompany the Korean meal, to the bibimbahp, a pile of rice, meat, and vegetables that cooks in front of you in a scalding hot stone bowl. And, of course, as long as the food is good, a little scene can't hurt. So feel free to relish the airy room with its polished wood benches and bright-red chairs and tables that stand in for K-town restaurants' drab décor. Another bonus: great beers, like Rogue, which go well with the grill-'em-yourself marinated short ribs. The 40-ounce of Colt 45, though? Leave it for the hipsters.  — JJ Goode

Soon dubu, $11; bibimbahp, $11; short ribs, $22; seafood pajeon, $7