Mon-Fri, 11:30am-3:30pm and 4:30pm-11:30pm; Sat-Sun, 11:30am-11:30pm
C, E at 50th St.; 1 at 50th St.; N, Q, R at 49th St.
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Kesté’s Roberto Caporuscio has teamed up with his old mentor Antonio Starita. In certain pizza-world circles, this is huge — like Gennaro Lombardi rising from the grave to sling slices with Dom DeMarco. For the uninitiated, Starita is third-generation pizza royalty. Along with Sophia Loren, his family’s Naples pizzeria starred in the Vittorio De Sica film L’Oro di Napoli. The man has served pizza to popes. He has tomato sauce coursing through his veins. In short, there is nothing about dough he doesn’t know. His student, Caporuscio, the U.S. president of the Association of Neapolitan Pizza Makers, is no slouch either.
Together, they’ve compiled a menu that reads like a
last-meal request from a Neapolitan-pizza addict on death row. There
are red pizzas, white pizzas, fried pizzas, fried-and-then-baked pizzas,
stuffed pizzas, calzones, and many other doughy delights. The
wood-fired oven, it goes without saying, is custom-built from volcanic
soil and stone. There’s room for 70 devout pizza worshippers, and an
Italian-accented cocktail list that employs both Campari and black
The New New New Pizzas (7/8/12)