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Never mind the pasta, heroes, and classic Italian grub like chicken parmesan. Here, the signature brick-oven pizzas reign. And at this funky, laidback and low-lit Chelsea pizzeria, with framed vintage photographs, festive Christmas lights, and mirrors on white-painted brick walls, the kitchen cranks out nearly two dozen variations. This is no double-stroller sort of pizza joint; people come to enjoy themselves, not to grab a meal. The Margherita comes with fresh tomato sauce and hot mozzarella oozing over a chewy thin crust, crispy in all the right places. You can also choose less conventional toppings: the Bella Mia comes with fried egg and pepperoni; the Alle Vongole with clams and bacon. Overall, non-pizza items are hit or miss while the pastas are nourishing and unpretentious. Stick with the pizza—the kitchen clearly takes more time refining the combinations of ingredients and the preparations. — Yael Kohen

For brunch, Don Giovanni serves inexpensive omelettes that pretend to be pizzas—only with eggs instead of crust. The Margherita omelette comes with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, and the Formaggi with mozzarella, gorgonzola, ricotta, and Swiss.

Margherita pizza, $8.95-$16.95

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