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On a grim block in the Theater District, Don Giovanni's exudes Italian good will. It's life-size, stuff-your-face portions of predictable but satisfying Sunday-dinner classics, the kind Tony Soprano eats in his dining room: spaghetti and meatballs, stuffed shells, and chicken parmigiana. In the dining room lined with white Christmas lights and opera photos in faux-Victorian gilt frames are bargain-hunting elderly couples, tired tourist families, and the bridge-and-tunnel set in for dinner and a show. Brick-oven pies are distinguished by their thin crusts—a winning balance because they're crisp around the edges and bready under the cheese. The sweet red sauce is mild and simple. Skip the Mozzarella Caprese and opt instead for the simple Crostini, which come smothered in a zesty pesto sauce or ripe tomatoes piquantly dressed. The pesto gnocchi have an appropriately chewy texture, and are served in tangy sauce rendered thick by pine nuts. The popular veal parmigiana is herb-flecked veal is lightly fried in a garlicky breadcrumb crust. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Spaghetti quattro formaggi, $11.95; pesto gnocchi, $12.95; veal parmigiana, $15.95; tiramisu, $6