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Demure and blessedly below the radar, Donguri places its emphasis unequivocally on meticulously prepared, authentic Japanese fare. Through successive orders of dainty and mid-sized concoctions, heavy on sashimi, seafood, and root vegetables, you gradually build a satisfying and substantial meal—and tab. Sushi is notably absent and only a few dishes qualify as entrée-size. Selections that seem over-simple, even dull, are prepared in a way that highlights their rich essential flavors, as in a mound of broiled spinach in a full-bodied, nutty sesame sauce. Also surprisingly satisfying are the bowls of fiber-filled buckwheat noodles in a savory broth, with light and crispy shrimp tempura. Fish like salmon, and kampachi sashimi out-volume meat. Largely unadorned, traditional treats are in sync with decorative touches like works of calligraphy hung from an exposed brick wall, muted ceramic serving plates, and food and sake menus handwritten on rice paper with eloquent bilingual descriptions for the Japanese-cum-local clientele. — Kate Appleton

Buckwheat noodle soup, $10; shrimp and vegetable tempura, $24