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Queens is slowly evolving, Woodside even more slowly. Donovan's Pub is not changing at all, and that's the way its fiercely loyal patrons like it. A welcoming, sometimes boisterous Irish tavern has commandeered this corner as far back as locals can remember, and it has been known as Donovan's since 1966. Behind the beer-centric bar is a Celtic labyrinth of rooms with tall dark-wood booths, stained-glass windows, and fireplaces. Waitresses wear brogues. But Donovan's is more than an archetypal pub for old-school types. It serves, arguably, the best burgers in the five boroughs: Juicy, flavorful, char-broiled half-pounders, with home-cut steak fries. The rest of the menu can't hope to compete, though the crab cakes—a chunky pan-sautéed pair—make a satisfying pre-burger shared starter for demanding appetites. At some bars, everyone knows your name. At Donovan's, everyone knows what to order. — Karen Tina Harrison

Mon.—Fri., 11 a.m.—11 p.m.; Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—midnight

Baked clams, $4.25; bacon cheeseburger, $8.75; crab cakes, $11.95

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Featured In

• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)