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K-Town regulars may be impressed with the décor but disappointed by the Korean eats at Don’s Bogam. In the back barbecue area, guests sit on floor-level benches as their feet dangle into deep recessions below the tables. The wine bar at the front of the restaurant, with its cubic wall sculptures and white-and-chrome palette, recalls Soho’s late Woo Lae Oak. That’s where any high-end comparison ends, however. Meats for barbecue range from average to poor: Galbi is tasty but a bit tough, whereas Cabernet-sautéed pork belly is fatty in a chewy, rather than melting, caramelized way. Gas grills instead of charcoal ones inhibit the development of crispy textures and smoky flavors. And the bibimbap comes in a stone bowl that’s not quite hot enough, so the rice doesn’t develop the essential crust. One standout dish: stir-fried squid with vegetables, in which puckered tentacles curl in a delectable sweet-and-sour sauce, heavy on the ground chilis. — Hannah Geller

Stir fried squid, $18.95