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Until recently, Korean food has largely evaded the fusion treatment afforded Japanese and Thai cuisines, maintaining its sometimes intimidating insularity. Not so at D’or Ahn, a concrete-fronted nook of a restaurant nestled between Tía Pol and an Exxon gas station in West Chelsea. Owner Lannie Ahn takes a modern approach to the décor, with its industrial metal mesh and concrete-slab bar, and to the food. Korean-American chef Rachel Yang, late of Alain Ducasse and Per Se, marries Korean flavors to French technique in dishes like pepper-crusted rib eye with oxtail ragoût and mung-bean cake. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Late-Night Dining: Small-plate menu, Tue-Sat, 11pm-2am