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Dough Loco

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

1261 Park Ave. , New York, NY 10029 40.787342 -73.95147
nr. 96th St.   See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
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  • Cuisine: Coffeehouse, Dessert / Ice Cream Shop
  • Price Range: $

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    • Moderate
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Photo by Liz Clayman

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Nearby Subway Stops

6 at 96th St.

Payment Methods

American Express, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Breakfast
  • Great Desserts
  • Kid-Friendly
  • Tea Time

Alcohol

  • No Alcohol

Profile

This venue is closed.

Chef Corey Cova of ABV, Earl’s Beer and Cheese, and the famous underground Flock Dinner supper club puts his sweet tooth to good use at passion-project Dough Loco, a new doughnut joint Cova opened with partner Ryan Gaskins. It’s a Kickstarter dream come to life in a throwback East Harlem diner space that seats about five and serves only Blue Bottle Coffee and irresistible fried-and-frosted rings. Every pastry is perfectly fluffy, with none of the flaking icing or dry texture of big-name breakfast cakes — but it’s the rich flavor spectrum that really makes these treats stand out. On the fruit side, a tart blood orange doughnut topped with poppy seeds tastes like a curious twist on the lemon muffin; a blueberry-lime version starts sweet and ends with a tangy snap. Nothing’s simple on this menu: Caramel covers the banana curry and dulce de leche varieties, and even your basic chocolate has a sharp, coffeelike flavor. But the lineup’s big hitter is Miso Maple, with a honeyed frosting tinged with brown sugar and the slightest hint of umami. Compared to an array like this one, the plain frosted doughnut feels a little underdressed.

Recommended Dishes

Miso Maple Doughnut ($3)

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