Mon-Thu, 6pm-11pm; Fri, 6pm-midnight; Sat, 11am-midnight; Sun, 11am-10:30pm
J, M, Z at Marcy Ave.; L at Bedford Ave.
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For years, cabs full of Williamsburg-bound gastronomes were ineluctably drawn to Peter Luger's, but nowadays, there's much more South Side culinary competition. First came the artfully rehabbed Diner and Marlow and Sons, now, the elegant Dressler takes up residence, as well. The seasonal American restaurant, named for the title character of Steven Millhauser's Pulitzer-winning historical novel, is the third (and most ambitious) local venture for Colin Devlin, owner of DuMont and its casual spinoff, DuMont Burger. Devlin hired Brooklyn artisans to build Dressler's quirky iron chandeliers, light-box screens, and zinc bar, and with the larger room and budget come a bigger wine list and a more extensive, more upscale menu courtesy of DuMont chef Polo Dobkin. But to placate neighbors wary of higher prices, Devlin shrewdly offers DuMont's famous burger on the bar menu.