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Ducale brings “green” Italian cuisine to the Upper West Side with eco-friendly ingredients like organic meat, as well as sustainable fish that’s line-caught when possible. The bi-level space is relaxed yet elegant, with cream-painted walls enlivened by grey-green wainscoting. There are framed color photos of Venetian canal scenes by Brian Hamill (writer Pete’s brother), as well as two-headed gilded wall lamps with small shades. Shiny walnut wood floors match the bentwood chairs. Chef Gerald Zarcone, formerly of North West, the prior restaurant tenant here, prepares family recipes from Rome, Tuscany, Naples and Venice. His burrata is a great starter. The baseball-sized fresh mozzarella orb oozes a delightfully creamy filling when punctured. Spread on the accompanying crispy, olive oil-brushed crostini, it’s addictive. For his saltimbocca, tender New Zealand baby veal chops get a prosciutto di Parma and melted bufala mozzarella topping. They come with tangy spinach and risotto enriched with chestnuts. Sage butter adds still more aroma and richness to this tasty rendition. — Michael Anstendig

Burrata, $14; New Zealand baby veal chops saltimbocca, $26