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On the Upper East Side, Northern Italian eateries may come a dime a dozen, but Due is a shining example of a keeper. At this cozy yet elegant venue, flavorful, straightforward food can be had at a good value. An appetizer of meaty shrimp and firm white beans is a worthy rendition of a well-known classic. Rollatini, a cylinder of fresh pasta packed generously with porcini mushrooms, ricotta and spinach in a velvety tomato cream sauce is a gratifyingly rich mouthful. Ladies take note: the chivalrous and hospitable staff will pull out your chair, drop your napkin in your lap, and if you’re game, shamelessly flirt with you. — Gabriella Gershenson

Rollatini, $19