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These days, the burka's no mystery, save for what it conceals. The burek, on the other hand, remains a little-known term for a savory Albanian pie possessing a golden-blistered, butter-laced crust that melds phyllo’s crispness with strudel’s elasticity. At Dukagjina, these bigger-than-a-dinner-plate pastries arrive from the oven poufed tall with fragrant steam. Sliced into wedges, they reveal one of four delectable fillings: spiced meat, slightly sweet feta-ricotta, chopped spinach, or pumpkin. Almost every cuisine has its dough-wrapped specialty—burritos, crêpes, egg rolls, blintzes; cultures along the Mediterranean feature their own filled pastries, like Greek spanakopita and Israeli bourekas, meant to be eaten in a few, on-the-fly bites. The Albanian model is meant for eating in, with knife, fork, and a generous dollop of lush, tangy yogurt. Beyond bureks, the shop features only Coke, espresso (which is excellent), and Italian sodas, a nod to the Balkan’s often fraught but durable relationship with Italy. Judging from the mostly Albanian clientele, this Eastern European stalwart has transported beautifully to the Bronx. — Helen Zelon

Seating is limited, with five small tables, and atmosphere, nil. But for Bronx Zoo visitors looking for more than generic snack-bar fare, the detour is well worth the five-minute walk.

Slice of cheese burek, $3.50; whole burek pie, $14