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With its three-story glass atrium and grandiose curving staircase, East Buffet & Restaurant looks built for the Las Vegas strip rather than downtown Flushing’s mercantile Main Street. Everything about the 1,000-seat complex is over-the-top, from the wall of waterfalls lining the wedding room to the decision to be every kind of Chinese restaurant at once: frenzied take-out counter, tranquil lunch spot, plush catering hall, all-you-can-eat buffet. Although, depending upon the day, you can find anything from spaghetti to sushi on the upstairs steam tables, the core of the menu is Cantonese. You can count on the chef to serve up a richly textured congee, or rice porridge, with choices of pungent pork, squid and subtle peanut, among others. The barbecue is popular—particularly the honey roast duck, infused with sweetness—but be prepared for it to arrive cold. More successful are the noodle soups in barely-there broth, particularly the intensely flavored fish ball, served under a sprinkling of shallots and thin, fried fish ball slices. — Keach Hagey

A 400-seat catering hall will accommodate even the wildest wedding, while a more subdued 50-seat private room off the downstairs restaurant, complete with audio-visual capability, is perfect for a business luncheon.

Fish ball soup, $4.50