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With its utilitarian decor and metal seating just for six, this teeny Thai spot is clearly a better option for take-out. A giant folding fan bedecked with a village scene and a Garfield clock—complete with a swinging pendulum tail—add color while waiting for your order. The menu is extensive, with traditional stews, sautés, and curry dishes accented with assertive spices and fresh herbs. Poultry finds more success than beef and seafood preparations; curry duck is a standout in a smooth, coconut milk-based red sauce. In the noodle department, Pad kee mao serves as a terrific pad Thai alternative, with tender chunks of pork, Thai basil leaves, and a medley of crisp vegetables. — Michael Anstendig

Keep that in mind when deciding whether to dine in or take-out.

Pad kee mao with pork, $10; larb with chicken, $10.75; curry duck, $15