There’s a lot about this sprawling, perpetually jammed production that seems to have been designed with a deliberately simple, even childish sensibility in mind. There’s the goofy, weirdly catchy name, coined by the company’s founder, Oscar Farinetti, who runs a chain of popular Eataly stores in Northern Italy. There’s the giant, hastily decorated space, which looks like a cross between an earnest food-fair exhibition in Turin, say, and one of the darker quadrants of the Paramus Park Mall. But once you’ve acclimated yourself to this quirky environment, you’ll find all sorts of unexpected pleasures. The dining establishments are organized around food groups (e.g., meat, fish, pasta, vegetables) where recipes tend to rely on sustainable, Slow Food sources, and many of the ingredients are for sale throughout the sprawling store. The idea is to taste a little (or a lot), become educated about Sardinian olive oils or the glories of Piemonte’s famed razza beef, then buy the ingredients and cook them back home.