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The chic trappings of Eat-pisode suggest a trendy scene, but the kitchen of this vest-pocket Thai restaurant says tradition, via the family recipes of owner Wara Supulchai. Spicing is authentic; sauce-heavy, goopy, generic Thai dishes are thankfully absent. Curries come in five varieties, from the spicy, flavor-packed green to a peanut-based massaman that’s both hearty and delicately perfumed, courtesy of sweet potatoes. Plump pad see ew in black-bean soy sauce is addictively savory, with fish fillets and wok-sautéed familiars to round out the entrée offerings. An appetizer of chicken wings is a meaty blend of chicken and bean-thread vermicelli pasta formed into a wing shape and served with a sweet, hot dipping sauce. Daily pocket-friendly lunch specials feature savory temptations like anchovy fried rice with Thai broccoli. The kitchen is part of the floor plan, half hidden behind wood paneling. Silk pillows, seductive lighting, and pebble-patterned floor tiles soften the industrial effect of exposed girders and cement walls. Behind the front counter, a sleek, wood-paneled niche holds a statue of Buddha, in a characteristic blend of tradition and panache. — Ethan Wolff

Stuffed chicken wing, $5.95; green curry with chicken, $12.95