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Ebisu is driven by classic sushi tradition. But to keep the check moderate in this fiercely plain boxlike setting, Kondo Shigeo relies on imported condiments and intriguing garnishes more than on expensive swimmers from Japanese seas. He makes a gelatin of yuzu, soy, fish bones, and vinegar in tangy harmony and drapes slivers of it across red-snapper sushi. His ginger is unlike any I’ve encountered, more or less pickled depending on the sea creature it goes with. Kondo slices a scallop from its shell, then prepares battera sushi—rice packed tightly into a mold with veins of shiso-soy-sesame paste—and tops it with scintillating saba (mackerel). — Gael Greene