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Ed’s Lobster Bar is a niche restaurant, the latest New York take on New England’s lobster shacks. Like Mary’s Fish Camp before it, the place emulates Pearl Oyster Bar, from its cramped quarters and nautical décor to the chalkboard menu and white marble bar. (Not for nothing, chef-owner Ed McFarland was a sous-chef at Pearl.) But a good argument could be made that the restaurant’s succulent raison d’être, its lobster roll, exceeds its "roll" model. The lobster is fresh and plentiful; the tiny, barely split bun little more than a garnish. Although French fries here are among the city’s best, there’s little else on the menu to brag about. Even oysters can arrive carelessly askew, their precious liquor spilled into the ice. But if you’re looking for lobster, you’re in the right place. Just be prepared to wait. Ed’s is always busy, and they don’t take reservations. — Josh Ozersky

Lobster roll, market price; whole lobster, market price

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Recipes at Ed's Lobster Bar

• Pickles (2007)