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This venue is closed.

With its down-home cooking and downright lack of décor, this joint makes the popular, franchised Los Pollitos around the corner feel like a hotbed of gentrification—not something that's easy to do in Sunset Park. The room gives the impression of a converted garage, with card tables for dining and the tool-bench transformed into a bar that's covered with half-empty beer bottles. If you can get past the sketchy digs, you'll be treated to mammoth portions of flavorful Mexican fare that has a quality of hominess. Chalupas, smothered in a deceptively fiery green sauce, make a great starter, and the fried shrimp are so hearty (and so fried), it's hard to tell where one begins and another ends. For goat fans, the barbacoa platter scores big points, with smoky undertones cooled off by slices of fresh avocado. After washing it down with a couple of cold beers, you might even forget how sticky the floor is. — Justin Hartung