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A restaurant claiming to serve Mexican “style” food usually warns off seekers of authentic eats, but if you hold off on the rush to judgment, first impressions are fortunately deceiving on this corner of an as of yet ungentrified chunk of Williamsburg. Past the slapdash streamers and liquor ads, a few well-chosen pieces of art dot the unassuming space. One sip of a margarita or mojito showcases an able hand at the bar, and a glimpse behind a curtained-off area reveals a comfy lounge, prone to playing contemporary Latin rock come nightfall. The menu proves itself in similarly small, impressive ways. Crunchy, El Paso-style shells on the taco plate are an initial turnoff, but a cautious bite delivers a stuffing of particularly well-seasoned chunks of beef. And while enchiladas Suizas may look sloppy and gloppy, the accompanying salsa verde is agreeably full of cilantro, and crema fresca as a welcome, authentic touch. The real finds, however, are the Ecuadorian specialties: Shrimp ceviche marinated in fresh tomato, lime juice, red onion, and cilantro, and weekend-only specials like goat stew pull out all the authentic gustatory stops — Kathleen Squires

Shrimp ceviche, $10.95