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Sun-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm-1am
C, E at 23rd St.
$3-$15
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Not Accepted
El Quinto Pino honors Spanish tradition by offering some foods, like olives and anchovies, virtually untouched. But elsewhere, chef Alexandra Raij and her chef de cuisine, Amorette Casaus, personalize the fare with unexpected flourishes. Five tender shrimp float in a pungent garlic sauce that’s infiltrated with ginger. The meaty bite in a chickpea-and-spinach stew comes from pimentón. And instead of gazpacho, Raij offers its so-called cousin, salmorejo, a creamy tomato emulsion with bits of hard-boiled egg and chorizo. Sea-urchin roe is big in Asturias but not like this: inserted into a skinny length of ficelle, slicked with butter and Korean mustard oil, then pressed in the Easy-Bake-Oven-size kitchen behind the bar. It comes, like the menu’s other streamlined sandwiches (serrano ham and a pulled-chicken-pork-and-morcilla concoction) tucked into a waxed-paper bag like a Shackburger.
ExtraIn addition to beer and wine, El Quinto Pino also serves specialty frozen cocktails.
Note
Try to station yourself at a bar stool in front of the chalkboard food menu, which might be the best seat in the 26-seat house.
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