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If your criterion for good Cuban cooking rests upon the quality of the cook's Cuban sandwich--which holds, in our estimation, a top ranking on the list of all-time great sandwiches--then you-ll love this homey little neighborhood luncheonette (ten bar stools and an orange Formica counter) and adjoining restaurant (map-of-Cuba place mats, miniature jukeboxes for every table, Christmas lights year-round) in Woodside, Queens. El Sitio succeeds gloriously where others fail in mastering this seemingly simple pressed sandwich, the beauty of which is its efficient, almost scientifically precise design. The perfect ratio of prosciutto-thin ham, roast pork, Swiss, pickle slices, a swipe of mustard and mojito plus weight, plus heat, plus time equals a perfectly harmonious blend of flavor and texture. This streamlined thermodynamic marvel stays amazingly crisp on the outside and hot and steamy on the inside, down to the last bite. Also good are El Sitio's lechon asado, ropa vieja, rice and beans, and its traditional, not too sweet, cafe con leche. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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• Roosevelt Avenue Roundup (10/18/04)
• Cubano Sandwiches (10/27/03)