El Tenampa

Why do locals flock to this Mexican restaurant in the back of a big, bright grocery store? It could be because of specials like chicken enchiladas in a sweet-and-spicy mole sauce, or the availability of seldom-seen goat offal like panza blanca and negra, the latter enriched with blood. Our hunch is that the excellent condiment bar is what keeps the place bustling. As customers load up stacks of plastic takeout containers with guacamole, red and green salsas, sliced radishes and lime, and pickled jalapeños, the indefatigable kitchen crew keeps replenishing it. Spicy pork and tripe tacos are two of the most popular fillings (of 14, total), but it’s worth watching the cook who wields the cleaver on griddled cutlets or charred hunks of goat leg to see what’s hottest.