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Blaring telenovelas, a jukebox filled with Latin hits, and a mostly Spanish-speaking crowd flavor the culturally immersive environment of this cafeteria-bright eatery. Since Ecuadorians consider hearty seafood soups and zesty fresh ceviches the pillars of their national culinary heritage, it's not surprising that the best things about El Tesoro Ecuatoriano (the Ecuadorian Treasure) are the numerous varieties of these two dishes. Ceviches—the brightest of which are the shrimp, fish and octopus—swim in fresh, zingy bowlfuls of thinly sliced red onions, minced cilantro and lime juice, ready for dipping in aji, a creamy hot sauce the shade of Cristo's Gates. Among the soups and chowders, an appealing shrimp chupe holds battered shrimp melting into a dense and fragrant broth, thickened with yucca and ground peanuts. Main fish courses are too salty and raw-garlicky, and more wisely sought out at some of the neighboring Ecuadorian, Salvadoran and Mexican restaurants on the block. — Jack Robertiello

Shrimp ceviche, $9.99; triple ceviche, $14.99; shrimp soup, $9.99; fish soup, $8.99