Eleven Madison Park

The restless brain trust that runs Eleven Madison Park has instituted significant if not radical changes to its famously cavernous dining room, which after a recent renovation looks sleeker but also a bit more generic than it did before. The woodsy, slightly idiosyncratic bar area has been replaced by the kind of sleek, gray-toned furniture you usually find in the lobby bars of grand, recently constructed international hotels, although there was nothing wrong at all with the stately procession of snacks we tasted from Daniel Humm’s minimalist, crisply edited new menu, which included tiny canisters of foie gras spread with the faintest scrim of caramel, curls of peach-colored lobster tail plated with chanterelle mushrooms and a half-moon of perfectly constructed potato tart, and a fiendishly delicious wintertime cheese-course creation that combines the warming pleasures of stodgy bread pudding, classically light cheese soufflé, and a faintly boozy, New Age beer fondue in a single bite.