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Mix with the locals in Astoria as they queue up for a table at this Greek fish tavern. Don't wait for a menu; it won't come. Instead, eyeball the counter as you enter. If the offerings look like today's catch, they are. The owner fetches the fish each morning. Opt for the pan-fried, pinky-size bait fish over the squid. No menus, no credit cards; just friendly, casual service. Plan to have dessert elsewhere, as there’s usually a push to turn over the tables and keep the long lines moving. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld