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Ask the older members of your family circle if they remember when restaurants routinely sported this name. Big fireplace, lots of fieldstone, little red hat lamps on the table, shuttered windows, the kind of supper-clubby spot Rock would take Doris to before he tricked her into doing it. This place isn't one of them. Not that you probably haven't been somewhere like this before. Only it was some prefab, overlit garishness called the Blue Star Diner or Bill's Chop House. But there are a few things this Embers has in common with fieldstone fiefdoms: top-quality beef, thick chops, and really nice people. They'd scoop your baked potato out for you if you asked them and still say, "Enjoy your dinner" from the heart. In fact, dollar for dollar, the Embers is the best steakhouse bargain in town. If that's not enough, at the end of Third Avenue is the neatest view of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. It's no fireplace, but in Bay Ridge, it passes for romance. — Hal Rubenstein