Empellón al Pastor

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86 Very Good

Alex Stupak’s combination tequila bar and tortilleria is a taco tour de force.

132 St. Marks Pl., New York, NY, 10009

646-833-7039

http://www.empellon.com/al-pastor/

Known For

The lowdown

Is New York a taco town yet? Have we achieved even a modicum of taco greatness? In spite of what the entire populace of Los Angeles would say, the answer is “yes,” with persuasive evidence on display at Alex Stupak’s combination tequila bar and tortilleria. What started off a little tentative has evolved into a taco tour de force. The housemade tortillas have gone from slightly flimsy to wonderfully supple. The headliner taco al pastor is an exemplary study in flavor and texture: crisp and fatty bits of pork neatly juxtaposed with sweet, cooling slivers of pineapple and three piquant salsas. Equally delicious are the signature cheeseburger tacos and all the side dishes — especially black beans with pork scraps, and white beans flavored with the earthy Mayan spice blend black recado. We’re a bean town now, too.

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelBring earplugs!