Mon-Thu, noon-2am; Fri-Sun, 10am-2am
6 at Spring St.
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Is New York having a Roman moment? It would seem so, with the recent openings of the Roman-style pizzeria Farinella, plus Stateside outposts of Sora Lella and Obika, and Bedford Street’s forthcoming Quinto Quarto Osteria Romana. This week, the team behind Aurora of Soho and Williamsburg brings us Emporio, a Roman-inspired trattoria that’s meant, via a white-tile-and-weathered-wood transformation of François Payard’s late InTent, to evoke a twenties-era Roman grocery (provisions will be sold, as well). Chef Riccardo Buitoni references Rome in dishes like Frascati-wine-braised rabbit, favas with mint and pecorino, and housemade tonnarelli cacio e pepe, but the menu also exhibits signs of a concerted effort to integrate local products like Flying Pigs Farm pork and Cato Corner Farm’s Hooligan cheese. And because this is New York City circa 2009, there’s pizza from a wood-burning brick oven, with toppings like guanciale, Tuscan kale, and pecorino cream.