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This venue is closed.

Set back from the streets and lined by lush green trees and ivy-covered islands, the outdoor café at this Village staple is a good place to witness Washington Square's comings and goings. Celebrity customers like Bill Cosby and "Cousin" Brucie Morrow favor the sedate, ivory indoor dining room, with its fabric-draped ceiling and rotating photo exhibits. But no matter where you sit, you'll notice that nearly everyone in the place is a regular—types who have their own tables, order "the usual," and pick up previous conversations with the staff without missing a beat. Does the haze of habitualness prevent them from noticing the overabundance of oil in the fried zucchini, or the odd, sugary presence in the spaghetti puttanesca? A comforting, generous chicken parmesan and a formidable veal scaloppine Sorrentina, sautéed with wine and baked with eggplant and mozzarella, demonstrate why the meats seem to be the favorites on the predictable Nothern Italian menu. Still, in a neighborhood teeming with better options, it's the genuine warmth that wins the consistent clientele and that lends this establishment its longevity. — Kathleen Squires

Mon.—Sat., noon—3 p.m.; two courses, $16.75

Chicken parmigiana, $16.75