Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight; Sun, 11am-10pm
1 at 23rd St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
14th St. to 26th St., Park Ave. to Tenth Ave.
Chef-owner Melissa Muller Daka spent her childhood in Sicily unofficially employed as her mom’s sous chef; since then she’s studied at the French Culinary Institute and Columbia. Eolo is her fourth foray into restaurant ownership and a return to her Sicilian roots but with a lighter, contemporary touch. Pasta dishes, which change often, promise the moon and stars with fresh, house-made noodles and creative ingredients, but fall flat on the palate. Tagliatelle is sauced with a wimpy short-rib ragu; perfectly textured cavatelli is deadened by a dry mix of roasted cauliflower and caramelized onion. Seafood is handled well—a grilled octopus starter is expertly charred and pleasingly chewy. At brunch, Eolo brews La Colombe to go with sweets like Grandma's ricotta donuts. Somewhow the Olive Garden-esque surroundings don’t seem to bother diners who fill most of the tables on a Friday night when the restaurant buzzes with TGIF chatter and hearty post-pasta laughter.