Profile

Chef-owner Melissa Muller Daka spent her childhood in Sicily unofficially employed as her mom’s sous chef; since then she’s studied at the French Culinary Institute and Columbia. Eolo is her fourth foray into restaurant ownership and a return to her Sicilian roots but with a lighter, contemporary touch. Pastas, sold in half and entrée portions, promise the moon and stars with fresh, house-made noodles and creative ingredients, but fall flat on the palate. Tagliatelle is sauced with a wimpy short-rib ragu; perfectly textured cavatelli is deadened by a dry mix of roasted cauliflower and caramelized onion. Seafood is handled well—a grilled octopus starter is pleasingly chewy—unfortunately, it’s dragged down by a sad patch of lentils. At brunch, Eolo brews La Colombe to go with sweets like Grandma's ricotta donuts. Somewhow the Olive Garden-esque surroundings don’t seem to bother diners who fill most of the tables on a Friday night when the restaurant buzzes with TGIF chatter and hearty post-pasta laughter. — Edna Ishayik