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Somewhere in between overseeing Babbo and Lupa, taping his cooking show, and just basking in the glory of his own undeniable greatness, Mario Batali has found time to earn another gastronomic gold star. At Esca, the overachiever in the orange clogs, partner Joe Bastianich, and chef David Pasternack do for Southern Italian seafood what Le Bernardin has done for French. The crudo (think Italian sashimi) is incredibly fresh and of the highest quality; pastas like spaghetti with fresh chiles, mint, and a one-pound lobster are irresistible. And the whole fish for two, roasted in a sea-salt crust that's cracked tableside, is a riveting performance worthy of the theater-district locale. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Crudo, $18-$19; spaghetti with chiles, mint and a one-pound lobster, $30; whole fish cooked in a sea salt, $72

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Gnocchi (2009)

Featured In

• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)
• A Gno-Mistakes Pasta Primer (10/2/06)
• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)
• The Italian Top Ten (6/2/03)
• Make a Fish (5/8/00)

Recipes at Esca

• Flounder Roe With Blood-Orange and Meyer-Lemon Salad (2012)
• Razor-Clam Crudo (2005)
• Grilled Calamari With Salsa Verde (2003)
• Whole Fish Baked in Salt Crust (2000)