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667 Fifth Ave. ,
Brooklyn, NY 11215
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The nook with portraits of Andy Warhol is not only an homage to the Slovak-American artist, but also a nod to the bohemian South Slopers who sip Czech lagers at the long bar at this Slovakian restaurant. The dining room feels like a design-y, indoor beer garden, with ochre walls punctuated with strips of black mesh. The menu modernizes Central European dishes—a slawlike salad of celery and green apple with walnuts salutes Germany, and halušky spaetzle topped with mild bryndza sheep’s-milk cheese and bits of bacon presents a slightly lighter, Hungarian spin on macaroni and cheese. Plump pierogis, generously stuffed with pork, sauerkraut, potatoes and cheese, or spinach and mushroom, get a drizzle of beet sauce and sour-cream mousse, and the “pub fix”—melty, garlic-drenched Camembert topped with vinegar-laced hot peppers—is alone worth a visit. The goulash, surprisingly, has no punch, but the chef’s tart rhubarb cake is already drawing locals in for return visits.
Late NightThe bar stays open until 2 a.m.
Recommended DishesPierogis, $8.25; halusky, $7.50; Bohemian pub fix, $8; rhubarb cake, $8
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