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Peru and Ecuador both lay claim to seviche—the technique of "cooking" raw fish without heat in a citrus marinade. We're neutral on the issue, but a delicious variation on the theme can be found at Eva, a humble Ecuadoran storefront on the far-southwestern fringes of Park Slope, where Spanish-language TV competes with Spanish music on the jukebox (brush up on your Spanish). Regulars go for the seviche mixto, a heaping bowl of shrimp and tuna submerged in a fragrant broth redolent of cilantro, red onions, and lime juice, delivered with a saucer of fiery orange-colored chili-pepper sauce. Eva calls this seviche, but because it's served hot, we call it soup. The lime juice in the marinade isn't cooking the fish, the heat is, so instead of a few slices of delicate, barely opaque fluke or bass, you get a steaming bowl of hearty, citrus-perfumed fish soup full of plump little shrimp and huge hunks of dark tuna. Its citric tang is counterbalanced perfectly by a glass of smooth, ice-cold "Quaker," a drink made from oatmeal, flavored with apples, cinnamon, and sugar.
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