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Off a stretch of sidewalk teeming with tourists and imitation goods of all sorts, Excellent Dumpling House packs in crowds for generous portions of decent, if not spectacular, Chinese fare. Fancy it’s not, but don’t let the green tiled walls and harsh lighting deter you from the bargains within. The chicken dumpling soup could be a meal in itself: half a dozen dumplings filled with tender chicken and infused with ginger bobbed in a clear, aromatic broth. While the fried pork dumplings were on the doughy side, the steamed vegetable dumplings packed a surprisingly complex (and yummy) punch. The main dishes were solid, served with sauces that eschew the cloying heaviness evidenced in so many similar joints. For under $5 you can get anything from curried squid to sliced fish on rice. If you’re old-fashioned you’ll have plenty of standard Chinese to choose from, whether it’s sesame or sizzling chicken, and many options with black bean, garlic, or lobster sauces. The house special beef, with fresh broccoli and jalapeño peppers, was tossed in a sweet, tangy brown sauce. Fresh, diced carrots and a subtle taste of curry made the wonderfully greaseless Thai chicken fried rice shine. — Lynsey Waite

In these dangerous days, Excellent Dumpling House doesn’t accept anonymous phone calls. So make sure to unblock your Caller ID before attempting a delivery request.

Scallion pancake, $1.90; chicken dumpling soup, $5.40; house special beef, $11.90