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Faan foregoes the bullet-proof glass at other neighborhood Asian spots for aesthetically pleasing see-through, floor to ceiling doors that frame the trendy, patio-like dining area, Inside, is an equally trendy space with concrete floors and plush, gray velvet banquettes. Unfortunately, the upscale decor is just about the only thing that sets Faan apart from the local egg roll outlet. The menu offers a mixed bag of Asian dishes (from Japanese to Vietnamese to Thai), most of them reasonably fresh but bland and uninspired. Sushi tastes flavorless and watery, salads feature iceberg lettuce, and you have to gnaw a bit at the beef satay. Yet there are reasons to eat here: the kick that the curries lack shows up unexpectedly in a nice basil broccoli, and the fried chicken wontons are exactly the right consistency. So with prices and portion sizes not that different from those at China Hong, you get a so-so neighborhood noodle shop that has the style and people-watching atmosphere of a Smith Street bar.  — Lauren Aaronson

Fried chicken wanton, $3.75; basil broccoli, $7.32; house special noodle soup, $7.80