Profile

Named after the thirties romantic drama by French author and director Marcel Pagnol, Fanny evokes a romantic mood all its own. Design-wise, first-time restaurant owner Julie Eck is on target: The architectural styles in the long, narrow dining room fuse mid-century California Art Deco (brushed concrete and bricks) with country house (old wooden bar and tables), and it works. Glowing bare bulbs hanging from the pressed-tin ceiling set the mood for a predominately mellow young crowd. The kitchen uses the freshest of ingredients and simplest of styles to match the bucolic mood, blending no-frills Southern French cooking with subtle Italian and Mediterranean influences. Dishes feel light, despite the heavy use of olive oil, bacon fat, and garlic. Entrées are winning, too. Moist grilled pork chop is seasoned with a hint of tarragon, and the codfish is served over pungent ratatouille and topped with fried artichokes. The amour in the air follows through to desserts like lavender blanc manger, an ethereal vanilla custard with a whisper of lavender—just enough to transport you to Provence, at least for a few glorious minutes. — Timothy Cooper

Reservations are accepted only for groups of six or more.

Ratatouille, $5; grilled pork chop, $16