In many ways, the restaurateur Gabriel Stulman’s revamp of this iconic, narrow, subterranean Village dining room is the most ambitious restaurant he owns. The original Fedora closed in 2010, after a long run serving chopped beefsteak and Italian red-sauce dishes to the neighborhood clientele, but the new iteration has an inventive bistro menu from executive chef Jin Kang that’s designed with an eye toward comfort and heft. There are fresh oysters, of course, and scallop crudo brightened by yuzukosho. Roasted chicken is made to feel fresh with the addition of fermented black garlic, while miso eggplant and cauliflower with rosemary aïoli may round out the sides. As is the case at all of Stulman’s restaurants, drinks — especially cocktails — are presented with lots of care, which is nice to know since in the case of Fedora, a long bar runs the entire length of the dining room.