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This is no laid-back, island-vibe, simple jerk-chicken shack. The neon sign glowing in the window touts "Oxtail-Fish-Curried Goat," and a mix of locals, courthouse workers, and Yankee fans—the stadium's around the corner—hurry in to get some. With about a dozen Formica tables, pale faux-wood-grain walls, a few random plants, and a television blasting nonstop, the atmosphere's nil, but the food is outstanding. Wise diners start with the specials showcased on that neon sign. Both oxtail and curried goat are rich, lusty stews, filled with butter-supple chunks of meat. Steamed whole fish sounds ho-hum but tastes anything but, covered in sweet peppers and a brothy, onion-infused sauce. Everything comes with a plate of rice and beans, a cabbage-heavy vegetable mix, and a side of sweet fried plantains. The jerk shrimp and chicken are authentic and incendiary: That searing burn heralds all sorts of other spicy tastes. There's more on the plate (and the palate) than meets the eye, not unlike the restaurant itself. — Steven Stern

Jerk shrimp, $6.50; curried goat, $8.25; oxtail, $10.84; steamed snapper, $13.50

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