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Giant models of antique airplanes hang above white tablecloths at this whimsical midtown Italian. A spacious bar up front dominates the deep, rectangular space; in back is a comfortable dining room enclosed on one side by a hulking wine cabinet. Appetizers and pizza are the menu’s high points. Calamari Fritti is perfectly executed, with each tender ring of squid enveloped in well-seasoned batter and fried to a crisp. Pizza lovers can choose from eight topping combos on thin crust; flavors range from the requisite pizza Margherita to more inventive options like asparagus and truffle oil. Best is the Campagnola, which pairs wilted spinach and whole roasted tomatoes with gorgonzola and goat cheese in a pie packed with pungent, earthy flavors. Main courses seem like they’re from another kitchen. Platters of seafood or meat are oversized and bland, and, occasionally, cold on arrival. Pasta is served in a gimmicky, create-your-own style; diners match their choice of three noodles to one of ten uninspired sauces. It’s an improvement over other mains but still over-sauced and messy. — Benjamin Kneen

Calamari fritti, $11; Campagnola pizza, $14