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A true survivor from another era, Fine & Schapiro Kosher Restaurant & Delicatessen is one of New York’s oldest kosher delis, dating back to 1927. This Upper West Side relic still smokes its own meats and fishes and offers a cornucopia of East European Jewish salads, soups, and cooked entrées, albeit with uneven results. The pastrami here holds its own: Their version is cured, dry-rubbed and smoked on-premise. It’s moist and well-marbled, with ample notes of black pepper, garlic and coriander. The cooked dishes are forgettable, like the stuffed cabbage with overly fibrous leaves surrounding chewy ground beef. Kasha, too, is dry and flavorless. The furnishings are likewise unmemorable, with simulated wood paneling and coffee shop style booths. — Michael Anstendig

Hot pastrami sandwich, $12.95