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A varied Italian menu compensates for the monochromatic décor at Murray Hill's Fino: Walls, carpets, and ceilings are awash in mauve, and two adjoining dining areas have the feel of a circa 1985 hotel lobby. A formally clad waitstaff, with the captain in a black tux, adds to the anachronistic feel. That doesn't seem to deter the loyal clientele of casually dressed, business-class regulars. With competent Italian takes on meat and fish, in addition to a long list of pastas, salads, and antipasti, Fino's menu accommodates appetites of varied sizes and predilections. Portions are generous and sauces are hearty, with traditional Italian spices applied liberally. Touches of oregano enliven the smoky Scampi Fino, sautéed in a white wine sauce with fennel seeds. And even though the texture of the lobster stuffing is all but lost in the tender Ravioli al Astaco, the garlic notes in the fresh tomato sauce are pitch-perfect. Among the meat options, chicken and veal predominate, with entrees ranging from the simple—chicken sautéed with garlic and lemon—to the more adventurous, such as veal scallopine with wild mushrooms, chestnuts, and marscapone in a cognac sauce. Such well-prepared decadence is a reminder of how much there was to like about the over-the-top eighties. — John Vorwald

Polio Val D'aosta, $15; scallopine de vitello “Monte Bianco,” $16