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Patriarch to a clan of restaurateurs, Lello Arpaia’s latest venture is with his son Dino at this midtown Italian place aimed at the expense-account set. In two large dining rooms with fabric-covered walls, white tablecloths and power-red banquettes welcome dealmakers. In a menu of tried-and-true classics, starters are a bit of a rough patch, but pastas and mains are consistently excellent. A memorably luxurious seafood risotto is enriched with crab, scallops, shrimp, and lobster; pappardelle with veal ragú is deeply scented with earthy porcini mushrooms and smoked prosciutto. Salmon alla Mostarda is a standout; plated on a bed of wilted spinach and dressed with a sophisticated, sweetly piquant sauce of apples and mustard. Corporate carnivores who’d otherwise prefer Smith and Wollensky will find certain comfort in the Bistecca Fiorentina, a well-aged T-bone that’s grill-charred and packed with beefy flavor. — Benjamin Kneen

Risotto alla frutti di mare, $25; salmone alla mostarda, $24