Mon-Fri, noon-3pm and 5pm-10:30pm; Sat, 5pm-10:30pm; Sun, closed
4, 5, 6 at 59th St.; N, R, W at Lexington Ave.-59th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Patriarch to a clan of restaurateurs, Lello Arpaia’s latest venture is with his son Dino at this midtown Italian place aimed at the expense-account set. In two large dining rooms with fabric-covered walls, white tablecloths and power-red banquettes welcome dealmakers. In a menu of tried-and-true classics, starters are a bit of a rough patch, but pastas and mains are consistently excellent. A memorably luxurious seafood risotto is enriched with crab, scallops, shrimp, and lobster; pappardelle with veal ragú is deeply scented with earthy porcini mushrooms and smoked prosciutto. Salmon alla Mostarda is a standout; plated on a bed of wilted spinach and dressed with a sophisticated, sweetly piquant sauce of apples and mustard. Corporate carnivores who’d otherwise prefer Smith and Wollensky will find certain comfort in the Bistecca Fiorentina, a well-aged T-bone that’s grill-charred and packed with beefy flavor.Recommended Dishes
Risotto alla frutti di mare, $25; salmone alla mostarda, $24