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Navigating the crowded tables at Firenze is reminiscent of traversing the winding streets of Florence. Unfortunately the food is nowhere near as flavorful or nuanced as that city's cuisine. Pastas show initial promise with intriguing Florentine choices like Ravioli Bella Firenze, stuffed with ricotta and spinach and served in a butter-and-sage sauce. Others disappoint: Pappardelle Boscaiola, a Bolognese sauce with generous chunks of sausage and porcini mushrooms, is timid, and Vitello alla Toscana, veal typically fried in a light breading, is drenched in an undercooked mushroom-and-balsamic sauce. The room itself, dominated by enormous flower arrangements and an old glass distilling vessel filled with potent grappa, is pleasant: Walls are hung with mirrors, plates, and candelabras. Desserts work hard to make up for lackluster appetizers and entries: Berries with zabaglione cream indulge the palate, with champagne frothed into a rich lather by hand tableside, then poured over plump strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries. — Timothy Cooper

Berries with zabaglione cream, $12.50