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The original Fulton Fish Market may be gone, but this seafood spot makes a very agreeable addition to the Seaport-area’s dining scene. Diminutive and dark, the restaurant keeps its nautical theme on the right side of kitsch, with muted hurricane lamps, some hanging nets, and an antique compass near the front bar. A pressed copper ceiling adds some polish, along with a white-tiled bar and black-and-white photos of the old market. Thoughtful small plates dominate the fish-centric menu, offset by just two proper entrees. Frogs’ legs come plump and meaty, black cod is snowy-white, and fisherman’s stew tastes simple but rich. Accompaniments, though, don’t always live up to lusty menu blurbs; a side of oily baby vegetables is a little redolent of Whole Foods to-go. Partners Jeannette Josue and Vincent Camporeale – he owns East Village staple Vinnie Vincenz Pizzeria – host and sometimes also serve. Diners might recognize Camporeale as the former headwaiter at Mesa Grill and Gotham. — Michael Kaminer

Charred Spanish octopus, $14; black cod “Nicoise”, $16; turista fisherman’s stew, $17